2003 4Runner Drivers Rear Door Lock Actuator Replacement

I just did this to my 4Runner and after the fact, thought of posting about it. Sorry for the lack of pictures but when you get in there you will know what I am talking about.

Tools I used. 

• #2 Phillips screwdriver
• 3/16 Flat blade screwdriver (small head but regular size shank)
• T30 Torx 3/8 socket
• Body panel tool
• Utility knife
• Flashlight

I purchased my replacement from partznet.com at the following link. 

https://www.trademotion.com/parts/2003/TOYOTA/4RUNNER/?siteid=840&vehicleid=1418240&section=BODY%20HARDWARE&group=REAR%20DOOR

If you have to navigate it from their man page start at the OEM Automotive Parts box in the lower left of the screen. Select your year, make, and model. You then select your options until you have option like below at the top portion of your screen.

All Vehicles - 2003 - TOYOTA - 4RUNNER - BODY HARDWARE - REAR DOOR

After you get there I used the diagrams to find the door lock part. For me it was as shown below.

[ 9 ] BODY HARDWARE / REAR DOOR / LOCK & HARDWARE / Lock assy
lock assy w/motor Left	MSRP	Core ?	Save	Online Price
	$222.01	$0.00	$48.84	$173.17

This was the cheapest I have found this part and especially with the free shipping they had at the time. 

Remove door panel as stated in this video.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bFhs9b_SBz8

After you remove the panel you will see where the cables from the inside door handles disappear into a plastic sheet covering a service hole. To the left of the service hole you will see the door lock connector harness plugged into the door lock assembly. Unplug that connector. I had to use the small flat blade screwdriver to hold the tab while I pulled the connector out. Plug that harness into the new door lock assembly and while supporting it lock and unlock the doors. This is to one, check to make sure the new assembly works and two, rule out the possibility that the harness might be faulty.

Unplug the new assembly and put it aside letting the connector hang. Now to remove the plastic covering the service hole. Do not pull on that sheet to hard you will rip it before the black Butyl will let go. I gently pulled on the plastic and took the utility knife to cut the Butyl away. It will stick back on the door that way if you do not get it dirty. I only peeled back the top half of this plastic cover from the service hole. I then pushed the cables and inside door handle through the hole in the plastic and let the plastic and handle hang. 

To be sure I got it back together the same way. I took my flashlight and looked through the service hole at the lock assembly. From the outside handle mounted in the door you will see a bar hanging down from it. The bottom of this bar is U shaped and part of the lock assembly goes in the U shape. Do not forget that or the outside handle will not operate the assembly. 

On door lock assembly you will notice three T30 torx screws one above and two below the lock opening. Remove the two bottom screws from the lock assembly. Reach one hand in through the service hole and hold the lock assembly and remove the top torx screw. It should now be loose from the door. I had to move mine slightly to the outside skin of the door to clear the harness connector and down to clear the U shaped bar. Then you should be able to remove it through the service hole. 

Now you have the old lock assembly with cables and inside handle. If you lay the new lock assembly next to the old you see two open covers. Those are where the cables from the inside handle attach. You can use the small flat blade screwdriver to carefully open those covers to expose the cable ends. I ended up just prying them open since this is truly the broken lock assembly. Be sure to pay attention to the way the cables are layed in the old lock assembly. One cable has a round end and the other is bent into an L shape. The round end connects to the top assembly with the outside sheath sitting in the U shaped hole and the L shaped cable goes in the bottom assembly. Again with the outside sheath nesting in the U shaped hole. I put a little grease on the friction points of the cables just for good measure. 

Be sure that the inside handle operates the lock assembly before closing the coves on the cables. If not you might end up breaking them off a good assembly to correct the placement. I also put a little grease on the metal rod on the opposite side of the assembly of the cables. That is where the U shaped bar rides and unlocks the door when using the outside handle. 

You should now be good to install the new assembly back in using the steps in reverse order. I had some PDF's that also helped me with the removal but I do not know how to post them here.

Removed inside door view with cable covers open.

Removed outside door view.

Removed latch view.